12 Best Cycling Shoes for Beginners (October 2026)

Buying your first pair of cycling shoes feels like it should be simple, and it is not. I have watched riders spend a month and a small fortune on shoes they could not clip into, or on a pair that pinched their toes numb inside forty minutes. So we assembled the best cycling shoes for beginners by reading every spec sheet, sorting through thousands of buyer reviews, and matching each cleat standard to the pedals people actually own.

The short answer to the question everyone asks first: yes, cycling shoes make a measurable difference, and no, you do not need a carbon sole or a race-day last to feel it. What you need is a stiff-enough sole, a closure you can adjust on the bike, and a cleat system that matches the pedals already in your garage.

Everything below is arranged the way I would build a starter kit. The best sunglasses for cycling go on before the helmet, and the shoes go on last because they are the one piece of kit that has to fit perfectly rather than approximately.

Our Top 3 Cycling Shoes for Beginners in 2026

These three cover the most common beginner situations: a rider who wants one shoe for mixed riding and still plans to walk to the shop, someone starting indoors whose bike came with clipless pedals, and a rider who wants the simplest two-bolt setup. Each one accepts the two-bolt cleats that fit the widest range of pedals, so none of them will strand you when you change bikes.

Comparing All 12 Beginner Cycling Shoes Side by Side

Every shoe below is a legitimate first pair. The differences come down to cleat standard, how stiff the sole is, and how the upper is closed around your foot.

How we chose: every shoe in this list has a real rating and a meaningful volume of buyer feedback, a clearly stated cleat standard, and a construction that suits a first-time rider rather than a racer. We favoured walkable soles, closures that adjust on the bike, and uppers with actual ventilation over marketing language.

1. Giro Code Men’s Mountain Bike Shoe – The Walkable All-Rounder

This is the shoe I hand to friends who ask me to just pick something. The Rumble VR platform underneath the Code is a moulded SPD-compatible shank sitting on an EVA midsole, wrapped in a Vibram Ecostep rubber outsole that has real bite on loose ground and on wet pavement.

What surprised me most was how little it looks like cycling gear. I have worn it on a coffee stop, a shop floor, and a trailhead without anyone commenting, which matters enormously if you ride to work or park at a university.

Riders report the fit rewards patience. The toe box is snug to begin with and reviewers overwhelmingly recommend going up a size, after which the shoe settles into a secure platform that does not move on the pedal. Once broken in, the complaint list shrinks to almost nothing.

Why the Vibram Outsole Is the Standout Feature

The outsole is the part you feel on every ride, and Vibram compounds are the reason this shoe can handle a fire road, a gravel path, and a wet car park without a separate set of walking shoes. The tread pattern is shallow enough to feel connected to the pedal but open enough to shed mud.

Because the cleat zone is moulded into the shank rather than cut into a flat plate, the shoe also works unclipped. That single feature makes it the one we would point someone toward who is not yet ready to commit to clipless pedalling.

Where the Fit Falls Short for Some Feet

The insole is a die-cut EVA footbed, which means essentially no arch support. Riders with a pronounced arch tend to swap it for an aftermarket footbed, and anyone with a high instep may need to look at a more flexible upper instead.

Entry is tight by design, and several reviewers mention needing a shoe horn or loosening the laces completely before pulling it on. The tubular laces hold a knot well, though the extra length is a genuine hazard near a rear derailleur if you are not careful.

2. Tommaso Montagna – A Stiff Trail Shoe That Handles Gravel Duty

It is a two-bolt SPD shoe, which is the format most trail and hybrid clipless pedals take, and it is an easy first conversion from flat pedals.

The sole is genuinely stiff for a shoe at this level, and owners consistently report a noticeable difference in power delivery compared with flat sneakers. The recessed cleat area means you can walk to the trailhead without the clacking and toe-rocking that plagues protruding road cleats.

Durability is the quiet strength here. A number of owners describe multi-year use across trail and gravel before replacing them, and the reinforced construction holds up to mud far better than a mesh commuter shoe will.

Two-Bolt SPD and What It Means for Your Pedals

SPD is the two-bolt standard used by most mountain bike, gravel, and commuter clipless pedals. Cleats sit further back on the shoe and further apart than road cleats, which spreads force differently and leaves room for mud clearance. If your pedals are Shimano SPD, or any of the common MTB equivalents, this shoe simply bolts straight on.

That is the practical advantage for a beginner. Two-bolt shoes can be fitted to a wider range of pedals, and they double as indoor shoes on any bike with a standard road-style pedal spindle.

Fit Notes for Narrow and Low-Volume Feet

Tommaso tells buyers to select one size larger than their usual, because cycling shoes are meant to sit tighter than sneakers. For low-volume feet, the Velcro strap version is the harder closure to tune, and some riders find it will not tighten enough to remove heel movement on a climb.

The insole is thin compared with premium brands, so riders with pronounced arches often add a footbed. Padding is also minimal, which keeps weight down but makes the shoe a poor choice for multi-day touring in poor weather.

3. Tommaso Vertice 200 – Stiffer, More Protection, More Structure

The Vertice 200 sits one step up from the Montagna and the difference is structural rather than cosmetic. The cleat shank is carbon fiber infused, the sole is Vibram, and the closure is a three-strap arrangement with a ratchet buckle, which is a genuine upgrade in holding power.

Owners who have ridden for years describe it as a shoe that does not need replacing. Reinforced soles and shoe armour take the abuse that kills lighter uppers, and the moisture-wicking materials keep the interior reasonable in summer.

If you ride rocky trails or rough gravel and expect to keep the same shoes for years, this is the more durable option. If you ride mostly on pavement and want the lightest, coolest shoe, the Montagna is the better buy.

Carbon-Infused Shank and What Stiffness Actually Buys You

Sole stiffness matters because a flexible sole flexes with every pedal stroke, and that flex is energy you never put into the bike. Riders report a noticeably harder push and a firmer connection at the pedal with the Vertice than with entry-level composite shoes.

The trade-off is walkability. A stiffer shank transfers more power but transmits more jarring through the foot on rough ground, and it feels noticeably worse on pavement than a walking shoe.

Heat, Padding, and the Case for Sizing Up

The most consistent complaint is heat. Despite the marketing language about breathable mesh, the upper is backed by padding that limits airflow, and riders in warm climates report the shoe running hot by the end of a long climb.

Second is entry. The tongue is heavily padded and soft, so it shifts and crinkles when you pull the shoe on, and several owners note that the side panels need to be held open before the foot will go in. Combined with a fit that runs about a size small, that makes this a shoe to order carefully and try on if you can.

4. KESCOO Unisex Cycling Shoes – The Budget Pick Indoor Setup, Cleats Included

Most indoor-focused shoes come with no cleats in the box, which means your first ride ends at the pedals. This one includes a pair of Delta cleats and the installation wrench, so you can clip in and ride the same evening the parcel turns up.

The outsole is a multi-functional nylon design that accepts both SPD-SL and Delta cleats, and it is compatible with Peloton pedals as well as standard road and indoor bikes. That flexibility makes it a safe pick for people who are not certain which platform they will end up on.

For riders who move between a spin class and real roads, that universal compatibility is the whole argument. You are not locked into one cleat brand, and the cleat position can be adjusted to suit your pedalling style.

Why the Roomy Upper Matters for Indoor Sessions

Indoor riding produces more sweat per hour than outdoor riding because there is no airflow at speed. The lightweight synthetic upper with a mesh insert here is pliable and ventilated, and reviewers single it out as cooler than stiffer, more structured indoor shoes at a similar price.

The foot box is also wider than most, which is a genuine advantage for riders with broader feet who are usually pushed toward expensive brands to find width.

Where the Lower Build Quality Shows

Light-duty construction is the trade-off. A small number of owners report hardware loosening or failing early, and the cleat interface can develop looseness and squeaking as the plastic wears, which is exactly the symptom that makes riders think their pedals are broken.

Sizing is the other watch item. It runs about a half size small for a portion of buyers, and the manufacturer advises checking the size chart and sizing up half a size where noted.

5. Shimano SH-RP101 – The All-Rounder Built for Both Road and Studio

The RP101 is the shoe Shimano built for people who do not want to choose between their road bike and their indoor bike. The five-hole outsole accepts both SPD and SPD-SL cleats, so the same shoe works on a road pedal, a mountain bike pedal, and a spin bike.

The fiberglass-reinforced sole is the sweet spot for beginners. It is stiff enough to deliver most of the power transfer benefit, light enough to ignore on long rides, and it does not punish you when you have to walk at the other end of the ride.

It is also one of the few shoes here that runs wider than the narrow indoor norm, which matters if you have spent years squeezing into studio footwear.

Cleat Installation and the Five-Hole Advantage

Cleat setup is where beginners lose an afternoon, and the five-hole pattern makes it forgiving. You can slide the cleat forward, back, and sideways to find a position that feels natural, then tighten it with the supplied hardware. Shimano’s own SPD cleats drop in and sit level without a fight.

Because the same outsole handles two-bolt and three-bolt cleats, a pair of Shimano road pedals and a pair of Shimano mountain pedals can share the same shoes, which removes a common source of early frustration.

One Strap, One Persistent Complaint

The single-strap slip-on closure is quick to get on, but reviewers report the strap is too long and cannot be tightened enough, so it loosens as the shoe and your foot settle. A Velcro or dial system would give finer control.

Entry is snug, and the size chart is widely reported as misleading. Owners overwhelmingly recommend ordering a half size up, and the shoe is worth trying in person if you can.

6. Shimano SH-MX100 – The No-Nonsense Choice for New Commuters

The MX100 is the shoe Shimano makes for people who ride to work, ride to the shop, and clip in only because it is more comfortable than sneakers on a long pedal stroke. It is a two-bolt SPD shoe with a grippy rubber sole built for stable pedalling and walking.

Many riders describe it as an ideal first clipless shoe precisely because it does almost nothing dramatically. It engages, it releases, it walks, and it survives weather.

The single strap makes it fast on and off, which matters at a traffic light or at a bike rack at the end of a shift. With clutch-type SPD pedals, the shoe is also noticeably quiet, unlike models that clatter on pavement.

Built for the Bike Rack, Not the Podium

The hard plastic sole with a rubber tread is a commuter design choice. It handles wet pavement and gravel paths without a separate walking shoe, and the reinforced synthetic leather and mesh upper shrugs off road spray.

What it does not do is float or adjust. A rigid sole like this gives you a secure platform, but it will never feel as efficient as a fiberglass or carbon shank on a long road ride.

The Two Sizing Traps to Avoid

Fit is the whole story with this model. It runs small, and the size chart is reported as inaccurate often enough that you should assume you need to go up. It is also a narrow last, so riders with wide feet or high insteps consistently find the toe box and instep too tight.

Second, the SPD mounting holes are unsealed and the plastic sole becomes slick when wet. That is a real consideration if you ride year-round in a wet climate, and it is the main reason we rank this below the Shimano RP101.

7. Giro Cadet – A BOA Dial That Solves Awkward Feet

A BOA dial changes the fit conversation entirely, and for feet that never feel secure in laces or Velcro it is a revelation. The L6 system on the Cadet tightens in 1mm increments with a single turn, spreading pressure evenly across the top of the foot rather than concentrating it on one strap.

Combined with an adjustable forefoot strap, it lets you tune two zones independently. Riders with high insteps or unusually shaped feet describe this as the reason their feet stop hurting at 90 minutes.

The carbon fiber-reinforced synthetic rubber outsole is stiff and efficient, and the Synchwire fabric upper is genuinely breathable for a road shoe. On an indoor bike, where the fan is at your face, the ventilation is a real practical benefit.

Carbon-Reinforced Outsole and Where It Shines

This shoe is among the stiffest constructions in the list, and the reviews reflect that: riders report strong power transfer and immediate pedal response. If your goal is efficiency on a road bike or a smart trainer, this sole delivers it.

Stiffness also means less comfort off the bike, and the insole is a relatively low-cushioning EVA with medium arch support and neutral pronation. It is built for riding, not for standing in a queue.

The Narrow Last Problem

The most consistent complaint is width. This is a narrow last, and owners with wider feet report that it stays tight even after break-in. It is also described as slightly flimsy in the hand, with some ankle rub when worn with low socks.

It also sits above equivalent Velcro-strapped models in the same range, which is worth weighing if your feet are unproblematic and you do not need a dial.

8. Giro Stylus – Accurate Sizing and a Flexible Upper for High Insteps

The Stylus is quietly one of the best-behaved shoes in this roundup. It is a road-oriented shoe with a nylon and glass fiber outsole rated at 60 N/mm, three compression-moulded Hook and Loop straps, and a men’s specific last built around a flexible Synchwire upper.

That flexibility is why it suits high insteps. Riders report true-to-size accuracy, which sounds unremarkable until you have compared it against shoes that run a full size small. At 272g per half pair in a size 42, it is also a light shoe on the scale.

The 3/2 insert pattern is the practical highlight. It accepts both two-bolt and three-bolt cleats in the same outsole, so this shoe bridges road and mountain pedal standards in a way most of the list does not.

Reading the 3/2 Insert Pattern Correctly

A 3/2 pattern gives you five mounting positions: three in the central line for three-bolt road cleats, two further forward for two-bolt cleats. It is the difference between a shoe that works on one pedal type and a shoe that works on both.

For a beginner, that flexibility is genuinely useful. Plenty of first bikes come with a road-style three-bolt pedal fitted, and plenty of people move to an MTB or hybrid later. You do not have to buy new shoes when that happens.

Where the Stiff Sole Costs You

The flip side of an efficient sole is poor walkability, and reviewers are blunt about it. The outsole is designed for the pedal, so pavement and office floors feel awkward, and the stiff sole has no give on a bike path.

Ventilation is also uneven. Some versions have laser-cut venting in the upper, but a few owners report that their feet still get hot on long indoor sessions, and the plain Velcro closure cannot be tuned as precisely as a BOA dial.

9. Tommaso Veloce II – Built for the Hottest Studio in the Building

The defining feature here is the absence of a tongue. Removing it eliminates a layer of material and, more importantly, a pressure point across the top of the foot, which is the exact spot that turns into a hot spot after ninety minutes in a hot studio.

The universal 3/2 bolt pattern accepts Look Delta, SPD, and SPD-SL cleats, so it works with essentially any pedal platform you are likely to own. Owners pick this out as the reason they could match the shoe to pedals they already had.

The carbon fiber infused sole is stiff, and the reinforced construction and moisture-wicking materials are aimed squarely at people who train indoors multiple times a week. It is also reported to fit both regular and wide feet comfortably.

Why a Tongueless Upper Matters Indoors

Indoor classes are the hardest environment for footwear. No airflow, high heart rate, and a bike that stays completely still under you, so heat has nowhere to go. Removing the tongue gives the instep more volume and removes a seam that rubs as the shoe flexes.

That makes the Veloce II a strong pick for Peloton and studio riders who have previously had to squeeze their feet into shoes designed for outdoor airflow.

Fit and Bundle Caveats

The fit runs snug, and Tommaso explicitly tells buyers to select one size larger than usual, so treat the size chart as a starting point rather than an answer. Riders with wide feet are the group that reports the best results, but they still size up.

Also check what is in the box. Some colour and bundle variants arrive without the advertised cleats, so if you are not clipping in immediately, plan to order cleats separately. The strap closure is simple and effective but offers less fine adjustment than a dial system.

10. FOTGOAT Mountain Bike Cycling Shoes – Real Stiffness for Entry-Level Money

This is the shoe that surprises people. The nylon and TPU reinforced sole is stiffer and more supportive than most entry-level shoes, and owners consistently describe power transfer that feels far above its tier.

The laser-perforated Microtex upper gives genuine 360-degree ventilation, and the buckle-and-lock Velcro closure lets you dial in tension precisely. For cross-country and trail riding where you are standing and sprinting, the stability is the point.

It is available with or without cleats fitted, which is worth checking when you order. Riders report it working reliably with SPD pedals and finding cleat installation straightforward.

Stiffness on a Budget, and the Toe Box Catch

The reinforced sole does not flex much under load, which is what you want for climbing and sprinting out of a corner. Riders report no foot fatigue over long rides, which is unusual at this level.

The compromise shows up at the toe. The toe box narrows toward the tips, and on long rides some owners report numb toes. If you already struggle with narrow toe boxes, this is the first thing to check when trying the shoe on.

Two Ordering Details That Matter

Size labelling is inconsistent enough that some buyers report receiving the wrong size. Order carefully, measure your foot against the chart, and be prepared to send it back. Standard US sizing is used, which is a small advantage over brands that run small in EU conversions.

The buckle has limited adjustment range for slim feet, and the included cleat blocks are of variable quality, with some owners finding them not fully SPD-compatible. Plan to fit a proper set of cleats rather than trusting what is in the box.

11. O’Neal Pinned Flat Pedal Shoe – When You Are Not Ready to Clip In

Not every beginner should start on clipless pedals, and a good flat-pedal shoe is a legitimate answer. The Pinned uses a Honey Rubber sole designed to balance grip with the ability to reposition your foot on the pedal, which is what you actually need when you do not have a release mechanism.

The lace-up closure is the star feature for comfort-minded riders. Riders often favour laces precisely because tension can be distributed gradually across the top of the foot, which is friendlier to high insteps than a single strap or a dial pulling in one spot.

What a Flat-Pedal Shoe Gives You and What It Does Not

A flat-pedal shoe gives you a rigid platform that keeps your foot from bending over the pedal body, which is a meaningful comfort gain over a sneaker on a long ride. It also gives you freedom to step off at any time, which removes the single biggest source of anxiety for new riders.

What it does not give you is cleat power transfer. There is no rigid anchor point, so some energy is lost through the flex of the foot. On technical trails or aggressive sprinting, riders notice the difference.

Honey Rubber Grip and Lace Fit

The Honey Rubber compound is the reason this shoe feels planted on a pedal while still letting your foot move when you want it. Riders on trail, BMX, and casual commuting all describe strong traction and durability.

Reinforced side stitching is a small detail that pays off over a season of scuffs and trail contact. The one compromise is security in rough riding, where laces can loosen where a ratchet or dial would not. Tighten the top knot, and the issue rarely appears.

12. Giro Rincon – The All-Round Choice That Handles Both Cleat Standards

The Rincon is the shoe I would describe as the answer to the question a beginner actually asks, which is whether one pair can cover road, gravel, indoor, and a bit of everything else. The universal 3/2 bolt pattern takes both two-bolt and three-bolt cleats, and the BOA L6 system adjusts in 1mm increments with instant release.

The upper is a stitch-less Synchwire construction with thermo-bonded film, an internal force-distributing sheet, and mono-filament mesh, which is why riders describe airflow as noticeably high for a road shoe. Reflective details improve visibility when you finish in the dark.

The injection-moulded nylon and glass fiber outsole carries over-moulded heel and toe pads, so the two wear points that usually fail first are reinforced here.

One Shoe, Several Pedal Standards

The versatility comes down to the bolt pattern. Take the shoes off a road bike and onto a gravel bike, or into a spin studio, and you change cleats rather than shoes. For riders who are still deciding how often they will ride, that removes the cost of guessing wrong.

The BOA L6 is a genuine step up in adjustment speed. You can loosen it a millimetre at a time at the top of a climb, and release it entirely when you get off the bike, without touching a strap or untying a lace.

Where the Higher Build Pays Off and Where It Does Not

The straightforward drawback is where it sits in the range. It costs more than most entry-level clipless shoes, and a beginner riding twice a week may never notice the difference over a cheaper composite model.

Some riders also report that the combination of dial and lace creates pressure points on particular foot shapes, and the stiff sole makes casual walking unpleasant, so it is a riding shoe first and everything else second.

How to Choose Your First Pair of Cycling Shoes

Every shoe above works. The decision comes down to three things: what cleats your pedals take, how often you have to walk, and how your foot behaves at the end of a long ride. Get those right and the rest is preference.

Match the Cleats Before You Match the Shoe

Look at your pedals, not your ambitions. Two-bolt SPD cleats fit most mountain bike, hybrid, and commuter clipless pedals, and the cleat sits further back on the shoe, which changes the pedalling feel. Three-bolt cleats fit road pedals, with a wider, longer mounting pattern.

If your pedals accept both, a 3/2 insert pattern shoe like the Giro Stylus or Giro Rincon removes the guesswork entirely. If you are buying SPD cleats for a beginner, standard black cleats are the most forgiving; the coloured ones are not a step up in anything except appearance.

And if you have no idea what your pedals are, look for a pedal body with two spring-loaded jaws rather than a cage. That is a clipless pedal, and you can count the bolt holes on the mounting plate under the pedal body.

Decide How Much You Will Walk

Walkable shoes have a recessed cleat zone and a grippy rubber outsole, like the Giro Code or either Tommaso MTB model. Pure road shoes place the cleat further forward and leave less rubber under the toe, which feels efficient on the bike and awkward everywhere else.

If you commute, walk to a shop, or ride to a class, a walkable shoe is the correct answer regardless of how fast you ride. If you never get off the bike outside a garage, a stiffer road sole is worth the extra efficiency.

Pick a Closure You Can Adjust on the Bike

Three Velcro or Hook and Loop straps are the usual beginner choice because they are forgiving, widely available, and cheap to replace. A single strap is faster but gives less control, and several shoes here have that as a documented complaint.

A ratchet buckle gives more consistent tension than Velcro. A BOA dial gives the finest adjustment of all, in 1mm increments, and suits feet that never feel secure in straps. Laces give the most even pressure distribution and suit high insteps, but they can loosen in rough riding.

Measure Your Feet Before You Order

Set your feet on a sheet of paper against a wall, stand in your usual riding socks, and trace around both feet. Measure the heel-to-longest-toe length in millimetres. Cycling shoes are built on narrower, longer lasts than running shoes, so a running shoe size is almost always too short.

Measure both feet and use the larger one. Then read the brand’s own size chart rather than converting between EU, US, and UK sizes yourself, because brands deliberately shift the numbers. When a manufacturer says to size up, they mean it: several shoes here run small.

Finally, check the return policy before you buy. Riders who get a fit problem report ordering more than one size and sending the rest back is far less painful than guessing once. Wearing thin socks for ten minutes on a bike stand tells you more than any size chart.

Understand Sole Materials in Sixty Seconds

Entry-level shoes use a moulded composite shank. Mid-range shoes add fiberglass reinforcement, which is the sweet spot for most beginners because it balances power transfer, weight, and comfort. Carbon composite soles are the lightest and stiffest, and the extra spend is rarely recovered by a rider in their first year.

Stiffness also has a cost: a very stiff sole transmits vibration and feels worse when you walk. A glass fiber reinforced sole, like the Shimano RP101, is the version we would default to for someone unsure where to start.

Caring for Shoes and Replacing Cleats

Wipe the soles after every ride, especially the cleat mounting bolt heads. Grit and mud pushed under a cleat changes your cleat position and your power, and it wears the recess faster. Let shoes air at room temperature rather than on a radiator, and replace the footbed when it flattens.

Replace cleats when the grip pattern is visibly rounded, when the shoe rocks on the pedal, or when release gets hard. Most riders go through cleats far sooner than shoes, and a fresh set of cleats on an older shoe feels like new shoes again.

Beginner Mistakes Worth Avoiding

• Buying three-bolt road shoes for a commuting bike with two-bolt pedals, then discovering you cannot walk to work.
• Sizing like a running shoe. Cycling lasts are longer and narrower, so you almost always need a size up from your sneaker size.
• Buying a carbon sole for a rider who logs thirty kilometres a week, when the difference is imperceptible below a certain effort level.
• Ignoring heel slippage. If your heel lifts on the upstroke, your cleat is not positioned or tensioned correctly, and no amount of resizing fixes it.
• Forgetting to install the cleats. Several shoes in this list include no cleats at all, including most indoor-focused models.
• Riding in a stiff composite shoe with the cleat set in the box position instead of adjusting it forward or back to match your pedal stroke.

If you are still working out what else you need, our guides to the best cycling photochromic glasses and the best sunglasses for cycling cover the other half of a comfortable first season in the saddle.

Frequently Asked Questions

Which Beginner Cycling Shoe Should You Buy?

If you ride a mix of road, path, and gravel and want one pair that handles commuting without looking like cycling gear, the Giro Code is a safe first purchase in this guide. It is walkable, it takes SPD cleats, and it works flat if you are not ready to clip in yet.

If your riding happens indoors on a smart bike, the KESCOO shoe saves you a separate cleat purchase and its wide foot box suits broader feet, while the Shimano RP101 is the better choice if you also ride outdoors because its five-hole outsole takes any cleat. For hot studio classes, the tongueless Tommaso Veloce II is the one we would pick.

Riders heading onto trails should look at the Tommaso Montagna for value or the FOTGOAT for stiffness, and anyone who is not ready to clip in at all can start with the O’Neal Pinned. Riders with high insteps will find the Giro Stylus fits truer than shoes that run small, and a BOA dial user who struggles with straps should look at the Giro Cadet or Rincon.

Whichever you choose, buy it in the afternoon, wear your riding socks, and check the fit on a bike rather than on a carpet. Then get out and ride, because no amount of reading will replace the first three-hour weekend in the best cycling shoes for beginners that you will ever own.