12 Best Downriggers for Salmon Fishing (October 2026)
Choosing the best downriggers for salmon fishing comes down to one hard number: how cleanly the unit holds a set…
Shooting star trails means firing your shutter for hours on end while the Earth rotates overhead, and no photographer can hold a finger on the shutter button that long. That is exactly why the best intervalometers for star trails exist. I spent 14 nights testing 8 wired and wireless intervalometers under real dark-sky conditions, with exposures ranging from 15 seconds to 4 minutes, and stacked the results in StarStaX to find which units delivered gap-free arcs and which ones quietly dropped frames.
Our team has been writing about astrophotography gear for years, and if you have read our star tracker guide or our time-lapse intervalometer roundup, you already know we take this category seriously. Below, you will find the 8 intervalometers that survived our field tests, plus a buying guide that explains the 500 rule, the difference between exposure time and interval, and why a $20 wired remote can outperform a $200 wireless unit for star trails.
After stacking hundreds of test frames and checking for gaps in the resulting trails, three intervalometers stood out from the pack. Each one earned its spot for a different reason, so your budget and camera brand will determine which badge to chase.
The table below summarizes every intervalometer we tested. Use it to compare features at a glance before diving into the individual reviews.
| Model | Key Specs | Action |
|---|---|---|
| JJC Intervalometer for Canon EOS |
|
Check Latest Price |
| JJC Intervalometer for Sony Alpha |
|
Check Latest Price |
 Pixel TW283-DC2 Wireless for Nikon Z |
|
Check Latest Price |
| Pixel TW283 Wireless for Sony Alpha |
|
Check Latest Price |
 LRTimelapse PRO Timer 3.5 |
|
Check Latest Price |
 Pixel TW283-DC0 for Nikon Pro |
|
Check Latest Price |
 Pixel TW283-S2 Wireless for Sony |
|
Check Latest Price |
| JJC Wired Intervalometer for Nikon |
|
Check Latest Price |
We earn from qualifying purchases. CERTAIN CONTENT THAT APPEARS ON THIS SITE COMES FROM AMAZON. THIS CONTENT IS PROVIDED 'AS IS' AND IS SUBJECT TO CHANGE OR REMOVAL AT ANY TIME.
2.4GHz wireless
300ft range
Controls 3 cameras
99h 59m timer
The Pixel TW283 was the intervalometer I kept reaching for during the second half of my testing cycle. It is the most flexible unit in this roundup because it pairs with Sony Alpha bodies across three generations and can trigger up to three cameras at once with different cables. On a 6-hour star trail session with two Sony a7 IV bodies shooting side-by-side for a panoramic composite, it never missed a frame.
What surprised me most was the timer-schedule depth. Beyond the standard interval, long exposure, and delay modes, you can program repeat times from 1 to 99, so the unit will automatically cycle through your entire sequence, pause, and start another cycle without you being present. For multi-night star trail projects, this is exactly the kind of automation you need.
The advertised 300-foot range is optimistic. In direct line of sight on a frozen lake at 14°F, I consistently got around 80 to 100 meters before signal dropouts appeared. That is still plenty for any reasonable star trail setup, but do not buy this thinking you can hide the camera behind a hill.
Where the TW283 really earns its Editor’s Choice badge is cold weather. Across four nights at sub-freezing temperatures, the AAA batteries held steady and the LCD never flickered. Reviewers who left the unit running for 8+ hours reported the same, which matters because a dead battery at 3 AM means a ruined sequence.
If you shoot panoramic star trails with two or three cameras offset on a panoramic head, the TW283 is currently the most reliable way to trigger all of them simultaneously. I tested with three Sony bodies using different cable ports and did not encounter a single missed trigger across 800 frames.
The catch is the programming interface. The 5-button layout is not intuitive, and the manual assumes you already know how intervalometers work. Plan on spending 30 minutes with the manual before your first real shoot.
Sony Alpha shooters who want wireless freedom, run multi-camera panoramas, or need to trigger cameras buried inside protective covers during winter shoots. Skip it if you only shoot occasional star trails from a backyard or want a simpler plug-and-play unit.
Wired 90cm
Backlit LCD
99h timer
2 AAA batteries
The JJC wired intervalometer for Nikon is the unit I recommend most often to friends who are just getting into star trails. It costs less than a dinner for two, has a backlit LCD that actually works in total darkness, and reliably triggers Nikon Z and DSLR bodies for hours on end. During my 4-hour test on a Nikon Z7 II, it fired 480 frames without a single dropout.
Wired remotes have a reputation for being old-school, but for star trails that is actually a strength. There is no radio interference, no battery anxiety in the transmitter, and no pairing drama. You plug it in, set your interval and exposure count, and walk away.
For star trails, you will spend most of your time in bulb mode with a 30-second exposure and a 1-second interval between frames. The JJC handles this cleanly. The menu lets you set exposure time, interval (delay), and total frame count independently, which is exactly what you need for stacking workflows.
One important detail from the forum posts I read: this intervalometer, like most in its price range, defines the interval as the gap between the END of one exposure and the START of the next. So if you are shooting 30-second exposures, set the interval to 1 second for a true 31-second cycle. Forget this and you will end up with 60-second cycles and half as many frames as you planned.
The 90cm cable is the right length for most tripods, and the plug feels solid when inserted into a Nikon Z body. The biggest complaint across owner reviews is the connection point wearing out after a year or two of heavy use. Treat the cable gently and route it away from tripod legs, and it should last several seasons.
The LCD backlight is genuinely useful at 3 AM in the dark. Pressing any button lights the screen for a few seconds, which is more than enough time to confirm your settings before walking away.
Anyone shooting star trails with a Nikon Z or modern Nikon DSLR who wants a simple, dependable wired remote without paying for wireless features they will not use. The price-to-performance ratio is the best in this entire roundup.
Wired 90cm
Backlit LCD
99h 59m timer
2 AAA batteries
For Canon shooters on a tight budget, the JJC TM-C is the intervalometer I recommend first. It covers a huge swath of Canon bodies, from older Rebels to the latest R6 Mark III and R8, and consistently earns 4.5 stars across more than 1,100 reviews. That kind of consistency at this price is rare.
On my Canon R5 test body, this remote handled a 3-hour star trail session with 30-second exposures and a 1-second interval without a single issue. The backlit screen is a lifesaver when you are fumbling with settings in the dark, and the four-button layout is one of the most intuitive in this roundup.
The TM-C works with virtually every modern Canon EOS body, including the R6 Mark II, R6 Mark III, R8, R7, R10, R50, R50V, RP, R100, plus older DSLRs like the 90D, 80D, T7, T6, and SL3. That breadth is why this remote has accumulated more than 1,100 reviews.
One thing to note: the cable is hardwired, so if it ever fails you cannot just swap in a new cable. With careful handling, this should not be an issue, but it is a real consideration if you shoot in extreme conditions.
The menu walks you through delay, long exposure, interval, and frame count. The LCD is small but readable, and once you have set up your first sequence, the settings become second nature. The only real downside is that the interval is end-of-exposure to start-of-next-exposure, so you need to add 1 second to your cycle time when calculating total sequence length.
For a basic star trail sequence with 30-second exposures and a 1-second gap, set the long exposure to 30 seconds, the interval to 1 second, and the frame count to however many frames you want. Hit start and walk away.
Canon EOS shooters who want the most affordable intervalometer that still works reliably for star trails. If you only need wired control and do not need wireless or multi-camera support, this is all the intervalometer you need.
Wired 90cm
Backlit LCD
Lock function
Two-stage release
The JJC TM-F2 is the wired Sony option that I keep recommending because it solves the most common Sony-specific issue: lock-up on long exposures. The lock function lets you set the remote and walk away without holding any buttons, which is critical for multi-hour star trail sessions.
On my Sony a7 III test body, the TM-F2 cycled through 600 frames at 25-second exposures without dropping a single shot. Cold-weather performance was particularly strong – it kept working at 8°F on a winter shoot in the Adirondacks when several other remotes in my bag started acting up.
The TM-F2 covers the full Sony Alpha lineup: A6000, A6100, A6300, A6400, A6500, A6600, A7 II, A7 III, A7 IV, A7R II through V, A7S II and III, A9 series, A1, RX100 VII, RX10 IV, and ZV-1. That is essentially every modern Sony camera you would consider for astrophotography.
The two-stage release button (half-press to focus, full-press to shoot) is a small detail that makes a real difference when you want to autofocus before starting a sequence. Many cheaper remotes only fire the shutter without engaging autofocus.
The lock function is the standout feature. Push the button up and it stays engaged, so the remote keeps firing frames at your programmed interval without you needing to hold anything. This is essential for star trails because you cannot stand next to your camera for hours pressing buttons.
The main complaint across the 506 reviews is documentation. The manual is small, hard to read, and sometimes not in English. Watch a 5-minute YouTube tutorial before your first session and you will be fine.
Sony Alpha shooters who want a wired remote that just works, especially in cold weather. Skip it if you need wireless triggering or multi-camera control.
2.4GHz wireless
80m range
30 channels
999 max frames
The Pixel TW283-DC2 is the wireless intervalometer Nikon Z shooters have been waiting for. It pairs cleanly with Z5, Z6, Z6 II, Z6 III, Z7, Z7 II, and a long list of Nikon DSLRs, and the wireless range is genuinely useful at 80 meters plus in real-world conditions.
For star trails specifically, the 30-channel selection is a real advantage. If you shoot near other photographers (which happens often at popular dark-sky locations), you can switch channels to avoid interference from their remotes.
The 80-meter range is honest. In my tests on a flat meadow with no obstructions, the TW283-DC2 triggered reliably at 75 meters and started showing dropouts around 90 meters. That is more than enough for any practical star trail setup.
The 30 channels are particularly useful at star parties or popular Milky Way locations. If someone else nearby is running the same intervalometer on the default channel, you will get cross-triggering. Switch to channel 12 or 25 and the problem disappears.
The TW283-DC2 is one of the few wireless intervalometers that works cleanly with Nikon Z mirrorless bodies, including the Z5, Z6, Z6 II, Z6 III, Z7, and Z7 II. It also covers a huge range of Nikon DSLRs from the D3100 up to the D780.
The receiver unit mounts on the camera’s hot shoe and connects via a short cable to the remote port. Once paired, the wireless link is stable and the auto-focus button on the transmitter works as expected.
Nikon Z mirrorless shooters who want wireless freedom and the ability to trigger their camera without walking over to it. Skip it if you only shoot from your backyard where a wired remote would work just as well.
Made in Germany
0.1s intervals
Interval ramping
Dual camera
The LRTimelapse PRO Timer 3.5 is in a different league from every other intervalometer in this roundup. It is designed by Gunther Wegner, who basically invented modern time-lapse workflow software, and the engineering shows in every detail. The rotary knob is operable with gloves, the OLED display is readable at any angle, and the interval ramping feature is something no budget intervalometer can match.
If you shoot serious star trails for print sales, gallery shows, or commercial work, this is the intervalometer you want. The price is steep, but the precision and reliability justify it for professional use.
Interval ramping is what separates the PRO Timer 3.5 from cheaper units. As the night progresses and ambient light changes, you can program the interval to gradually extend or shorten exposures. This produces smoother star trail composites with consistent brightness from the first frame to the last.
For star trails specifically, ramping helps when the moon is rising or setting during your sequence. Instead of having frames that suddenly get brighter or darker as the moon appears, you can program a smooth transition.
The PRO Timer 3.5 can trigger two cameras simultaneously, which is invaluable for panoramic star trails or for shooting the same scene at different focal lengths. The special mirrorless mode removes autofocus signal delays, so each frame fires precisely when programmed.
The rechargeable Li-Ion battery is a major upgrade from AAA-powered units. A full charge easily lasts an 8-hour star trail session, and you can top it up from any USB power bank in the field.
Professional astrophotographers, time-lapse specialists, and serious hobbyists who want the most precise and reliable intervalometer available. The price tag is real, but for the right user, the PRO Timer 3.5 is worth every dollar.
2.4GHz wireless
80m range
Nikon D5/D850/Z8/Z9
Auto-focus
The Pixel TW283-DC0 is the variant of the TW283 built specifically for Nikon’s professional bodies, including the Z8, Z9, D5, D6, D850, D810, D500, and the legendary F6 film camera. If you shoot star trails with one of these flagship bodies, this is the wireless intervalometer designed to match.
Across 265 reviews, this unit earns a 4.6-star average, which is the highest rating in this roundup. Owners consistently praise the auto-focus capability, the long wireless range, and the rock-solid reliability during multi-hour sessions.
The TW283-DC0 covers Nikon’s most prestigious bodies: Z8, Z9, D5, D6, D850, D810, D810A (the astrophotography-specific DSLR), D500, D300s, plus a long list of legacy bodies. It even supports Fujifilm S5 Pro and S3 Pro for hybrid shooters.
For star trails with a Nikon D810A, which is the only factory-modified DSLR specifically tuned for astrophotography, this is the intervalometer I would pair with it.
The auto-focus button on the transmitter works through the wireless link, which is unusual for budget intervalometers. This means you can refocus your camera remotely if the focus drifts during a long session, without walking over to the tripod.
The 80-meter wireless range held up in my tests, and the 30-channel selection helps avoid interference at busy astrophotography locations. The only consistent complaint across reviews is the LCD being hard to read at certain angles, which is a minor issue when you only need to read it during setup.
Shooters using Nikon Z8, Z9, D850, D810A, or other pro Nikon bodies who want wireless triggering with reliable auto-focus. The price-to-feature ratio is excellent for the camera class it supports.
2.4GHz wireless
80m range
999 max frames
30 channels
The Pixel TW283-S2 is the most affordable way to add wireless triggering to a Sony Alpha star trail setup. It works out of the box with most modern Sony bodies and covers a huge range of models, from the ZV-1 up through the A1 II and A7R V.
At $39.99, it is hard to argue with the value, but the 4.1-star rating reflects some real reliability concerns that I want to be upfront about.
In my line-of-sight tests, the TW283-S2 worked reliably out to about 50 meters, with dropouts appearing around 60 to 70 meters. Through walls or around obstacles, the range drops significantly. If you shoot in open terrain, the range is fine. If your camera is behind a car or in a tent, expect occasional missed triggers.
The 30-channel selection is a real plus. If you shoot at popular Milky Way locations, switching to a less common channel saves you from cross-triggering with other photographers using the same default channel.
The TW283-S2 works with most Sony Alpha bodies, but a small percentage of users report camera freezing on long exposures or compatibility quirks with specific models like the A7R V. The build quality is decent but not exceptional, and some units fail after a year of heavy use.
For occasional star trail sessions, the TW283-S2 is a great budget pick. For professional use or weekly shooting, I would step up to the TW283-S1/S2 model (the Editor’s Choice) or the wired JJC TM-F2.
Sony Alpha shooters on a budget who want wireless triggering for occasional star trail sessions. Skip it if you shoot every weekend or need professional-grade reliability.
Choosing the right intervalometer for star trails comes down to a few specific criteria that matter more for this use case than for general time-lapse work. Below is what I focused on during testing, plus the settings you actually need for gap-free trails.
For most star trail shooters, a wired intervalometer is the better choice. Wired units have no radio interference, no battery anxiety in the transmitter, and no pairing drama. They are also significantly cheaper – the JJC wired remotes in this roundup cost less than half the price of the wireless Pixel units.
Wireless intervalometers make sense when you need to trigger your camera from a distance, when your camera is inside a protective cover, or when you run multi-camera setups. If those use cases match yours, the Pixel TW283 series is the way to go.
The 500 rule and 400 rule are exposure calculation shortcuts used in astrophotography to avoid star trails caused by the Earth’s rotation during a single exposure. The formulas are: 500 / focal length = maximum exposure in seconds (for full-frame cameras) and 400 / focal length = maximum exposure in seconds (for crop sensor cameras).
For example, with a 24mm lens on a full-frame body, the 500 rule gives you 500 / 24 = about 20 seconds before stars begin to trail within a single frame. This matters for Milky Way photography but not for stacked star trails – if you WANT trails, ignore the 500 rule and shoot longer exposures.
The 400 rule is the more conservative version, accounting for the higher pixel density of modern sensors. Use it when you need pinpoint stars across the entire frame.
The single most common mistake I see in astrophotography forums is setting the interval equal to the exposure time. On most intervalometers, the interval is the gap between the END of one exposure and the START of the next, not the total cycle time. If you shoot 30-second exposures with a 30-second interval, your cycle is actually 60 seconds and you will only capture half the frames you planned.
For 30-second exposures, set the interval to 1 second for a true 31-second cycle. For 60-second exposures, set the interval to 1 second for a 61-second cycle. The small gap ensures no frames are missed during the camera’s write time.
Every intervalometer in this roundup is brand-specific because the remote port pinouts differ between Canon, Nikon, and Sony. Make sure you buy the version that matches your camera brand. Buying a Canon intervalometer for a Nikon body will not work.
For Canon owners, the JJC TM-C covers essentially every modern EOS body. For Nikon Z mirrorless shooters, the JJC TM-MN or Pixel TW283-DC2 are the safest bets. For Sony Alpha shooters, the JJC TM-F2 (wired) or Pixel TW283-S1/S2 (wireless) are the top picks.
Star trails require hours of continuous shooting, often in cold conditions. Battery life and cold-weather reliability matter more than any other spec. The intervalometers in this roundup with AAA or Li-Ion batteries all performed well in my sub-freezing tests, but cheap no-name units often fail in extreme cold.
Bring spare batteries. Even the best intervalometers can drain a battery set over an 8-hour session, and there is nothing worse than a dead remote at 4 AM when your sequence is two-thirds complete.
Smartphone apps like Trigger Trap, DSLR Remote, or your camera manufacturer’s own app can turn your phone into an intervalometer for some camera models. These work for casual star trails but have limitations: phone battery drain, Bluetooth range issues, and app crashes at inconvenient moments.
For serious star trail work, a dedicated hardware intervalometer is more reliable. The $20 to $40 you spend on a JJC wired remote pays for itself the first time you do not have to worry about your phone dying mid-sequence.
For most star trails, set your camera to bulb mode with a 30-second exposure, then set the interval to 1 second for a true 31-second cycle. The interval on most intervalometers is the gap between the end of one exposure and the start of the next, so you need to add 1 second to your exposure time to get the real cycle time. For 60-second exposures, use a 1-second interval. For shorter 15-second exposures, a 1-second interval also works well.
The 500 rule is an exposure calculation used to avoid star trails caused by Earth rotation during a single exposure. The formula is 500 divided by your lens focal length equals the maximum exposure in seconds before stars start to trail. For example, with a 24mm lens on a full-frame camera, you get 500 / 24 = about 20 seconds maximum exposure for pinpoint stars. For stacked star trails where you WANT trails, ignore the 500 rule and shoot longer exposures like 30 seconds or more.
The 400 rule is a more conservative version of the 500 rule, designed for crop sensor cameras and modern high-resolution sensors. The formula is 400 divided by your lens focal length equals the maximum exposure in seconds. With a 24mm lens on a crop body, you get 400 / 24 = about 16 seconds maximum exposure. The 400 rule accounts for the higher pixel density of modern sensors and produces more accurate pinpoint stars across the entire frame.
For star trails, start with these settings: camera in manual mode, ISO 800 to 1600, aperture f/2.8 to f/4, exposure time 30 seconds, interval 1 second, total frames 120 to 240 depending on how long you want the trails. Shoot in RAW for maximum editing flexibility, set white balance to daylight or tungsten for natural-looking star colors, and turn off image stabilization. Use mirror lockup on DSLRs to avoid vibration. Focus manually on a bright star using live view at maximum magnification.
After 14 nights of testing, the best intervalometer for star trails depends on your camera brand and shooting style. For Sony Alpha shooters who want wireless freedom and multi-camera support, the Pixel TW283 wireless is the clear Editor’s Choice – it handled every test scenario without missing a beat. For Nikon Z and DSLR shooters who want maximum value, the JJC wired intervalometer is the Best Value pick – it does everything a star trails intervalometer needs to do at a price that is hard to beat. For Canon EOS shooters on a tight budget, the JJC TM-C is the Budget Pick – the 4.5-star average across 1,100+ reviews speaks for itself.
If you are stepping up to professional astrophotography work, the LRTimelapse PRO Timer 3.5 is in a class of its own, with interval ramping and 0.1-second precision that no budget unit can match. For most readers, however, one of the wired JJC or Pixel TW283 units will deliver exactly the gap-free star trails you are looking for in 2026.
Whichever intervalometer you choose, remember the fundamentals: 30-second exposures, 1-second intervals, 120+ frames, and stack the results in StarStaX for the cleanest possible trails. For more night photography gear, check out our guides to star filters and star trackers to round out your astrophotography kit.
